A bit of history: Kowloon Walled City (KWC) was a small area that the Chinese insisted on keeping when the area came under British control in the late 1890's. Originally a military garrison, it became home to Chinese who did not want to be subjected to British rule – including, as it turns out, criminals, drug addicts and other seedy elements. But the Chinese never gave up their control of the area.
More and more people moved into the area, including business owners that didn't want to bother with (or didn't qualify for) a British business license. Buildings were constructed by the most efficient means possible – not even using foundations (in many cases the buildings only stayed up by relying on their neighbours for support). There was no water supply (only a series of 5-7 wells) and electricity was distributed by the most haphazard manner imaginable. By the time that the Handover was imminent, the area was home to about 40,000 people. However, it was finally agreed by the British and Chinese governments that the area had to go (and the Chinese government really didn't want to have to deal with it once the Handover went through), so in 1993 & 1994 it was demolished, and a park constructed in its place.
Why am I interested in this place? Because – and this is not to diminish the great level of human suffering that took place within the cramped walls of this terrible place – it made for a fantastic setting for stories. There were wonderful, positive stories of people who loved their homes dearly; others who braved the Triads and other dangers to bring hope, supplies, and other aid to those within. It was an amazing, anomalous, unique part of Hong Kong life for a hundred years.
Here's a link to the wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kowloon_Walled_City
I spent two hours wandering the paths and peaceful pavilions of the park, imagining exactly the opposite standing right at that spot not even twenty years ago. The area's tumultuous past was handled respectfully and thoroughly by the displays. There were even five display chambers, recreating scenes from within the City, such as cramped rooms and dank alleyways, but they were closed off for renovations, so I did not get a chance to see those.
I'll have an album with my pictures up on flickr shortly. I'll leave the discussion of various areas to the photos.
I am very glad I went.
Part two of the day came after I climbed back on the bus and returned to Tsim Sha Tsui. Stopped at Kowloon Park, which is a large park (13 hectares, approx 1/10 the size of Beacon Hill Park, but it's organized in a way that makes you wander from part to part, making it seem much larger than it is).
Spent another two hours wandering this park, enjoying the natural surroundings, including a bush maze and aviary. They even retained the cannons that were part of the park's original function as a defensive military base looking out over the harbour (now, of course, it's far inland due to the land reclamation!). It reminded me a bit of Saxe Point Park in Victoria.
Since I was already a mile or so up Nathan Road, I went a bit further and took in the Temple Street Night Market (though it wasn't actually night yet, most of the booths were already in full swing). Several blocks long, selling everything from socks to bolts of cloth, electronics to fans, tourist trinkets, security cameras, paintings, sculptures, charms, jewelry, and on and on. Didn't buy anything (though I was tempted). Also didn't take any pictures (sorry) as I didn't want to pull out the camera in such a crowded environment.
Back to the hostel, where I talked to one of the management there; it turns out that the people staying there this week are paying less than I am for the same room, so he gave me a refund which essentially amounts to a free night stay.
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